Rat Behavior
Ever wonder how your rats feels about certain situations? Or wonder just what some of their strange behaviors mean? Here I have compiled a bunch of rat behaviors and their meanings. You can also watch the videos below to see examples of the described behaviors.
Bruxing:
Bruxing is when rats grind their upper and lower incisors together. This behavior is necessary for them to keep these ever-growing incisors in check, however it can also be associated with the rats feeling heightened emotion. Bruxing is often seen like a cats purr - rats will brux when content and happy, but also when nervous and afraid. To tell the difference you need to examine all their body language, and again keep in mind that bruxing is necessary for rats and so even if it doesn't seem to be happening, they are bruxing on their own.
Bruxing is when rats grind their upper and lower incisors together. This behavior is necessary for them to keep these ever-growing incisors in check, however it can also be associated with the rats feeling heightened emotion. Bruxing is often seen like a cats purr - rats will brux when content and happy, but also when nervous and afraid. To tell the difference you need to examine all their body language, and again keep in mind that bruxing is necessary for rats and so even if it doesn't seem to be happening, they are bruxing on their own.
Boggling:
Because of the way rat jaw muscles are connected to their eyes, when they grind their teeth very quickly this motion will translate into their eyes bulging in and out of their sockets. This is a completely normal behavior and is usually seen when the rat is particularly happy and content or particularly scared or nervous.
Because of the way rat jaw muscles are connected to their eyes, when they grind their teeth very quickly this motion will translate into their eyes bulging in and out of their sockets. This is a completely normal behavior and is usually seen when the rat is particularly happy and content or particularly scared or nervous.
Scent Marking:
When a rat leaves a drop of pee on something or rubs up against it they are scent marking. Just like in other animals this behavior is meant to make the area smell more like them. Its common for rats to scent mark in a new area, especially if they are on the more confident side and also especially if they are intact males. Neutered males are much less prone to scent marking, as are females, although intact females can sometimes be just as notorious as intact males. Scent marking cagemates along with their human friends and pretty much everything and anything is fairly normal for rats, so if you want something to not be scent-marked you will have to keep it out of reach of the rats! While scent marking with small bits of urine is normal, scent marking by rubbing against objects is often a cause for concern. The reason for this is because this sort of scent marking usually indicates that the rat is feeling agitated - this could be due to having a new rat introduced to their area or some other benign factor, but in intact males it is more commonly the first signs of hormonal aggression and means the rat should be observed more to see if they need to be neutered.
When a rat leaves a drop of pee on something or rubs up against it they are scent marking. Just like in other animals this behavior is meant to make the area smell more like them. Its common for rats to scent mark in a new area, especially if they are on the more confident side and also especially if they are intact males. Neutered males are much less prone to scent marking, as are females, although intact females can sometimes be just as notorious as intact males. Scent marking cagemates along with their human friends and pretty much everything and anything is fairly normal for rats, so if you want something to not be scent-marked you will have to keep it out of reach of the rats! While scent marking with small bits of urine is normal, scent marking by rubbing against objects is often a cause for concern. The reason for this is because this sort of scent marking usually indicates that the rat is feeling agitated - this could be due to having a new rat introduced to their area or some other benign factor, but in intact males it is more commonly the first signs of hormonal aggression and means the rat should be observed more to see if they need to be neutered.
In-Heat Behaviors:
Every few days from about 5 weeks old intact female rats will go into heat for a few hours. During this time they will become receptive to males, and indeed will only really care about getting other rats (regardless of gender) to mount them. You will often notice females in heat seeming to lead the others on a chase, running off them stopping suddenly in a sort of hunched position, then either running off when the others catch up, or allowing themselves to be humped while arching their back before hopping back up and starting the cycle all over. Its also common for females in heat to vibrate their ears, arch their back when touched on the back, frog hop when touched on the back, and even become a bit more skittish and flighty seeming for the duration of their heat.
Every few days from about 5 weeks old intact female rats will go into heat for a few hours. During this time they will become receptive to males, and indeed will only really care about getting other rats (regardless of gender) to mount them. You will often notice females in heat seeming to lead the others on a chase, running off them stopping suddenly in a sort of hunched position, then either running off when the others catch up, or allowing themselves to be humped while arching their back before hopping back up and starting the cycle all over. Its also common for females in heat to vibrate their ears, arch their back when touched on the back, frog hop when touched on the back, and even become a bit more skittish and flighty seeming for the duration of their heat.
Tail Wagging:
Tail wagging in rats is very similar to tail wagging in dogs in that its most commonly seen when they are feeling a strong emotion. If they are gently wagging their tail it tends to be due to contentedness - you will most commonly see this in rats that are enjoying being pet, or enjoying chilling with their cagemates. On the other hand a fast tail whip from side to side indicates excitement - this can be both positive and negative, with playful happy rats sometimes whipping their tail around as they play, but it being just as common for hormonal or aggressive rats to whip their tails. I have most often seen this sort of tail whip when the rats are feeling playful and excited, or during intros where the rat isn't so sure about their new companion(s).
Tail wagging in rats is very similar to tail wagging in dogs in that its most commonly seen when they are feeling a strong emotion. If they are gently wagging their tail it tends to be due to contentedness - you will most commonly see this in rats that are enjoying being pet, or enjoying chilling with their cagemates. On the other hand a fast tail whip from side to side indicates excitement - this can be both positive and negative, with playful happy rats sometimes whipping their tail around as they play, but it being just as common for hormonal or aggressive rats to whip their tails. I have most often seen this sort of tail whip when the rats are feeling playful and excited, or during intros where the rat isn't so sure about their new companion(s).
Fur Puffing/Fluffing:
Fur puffing occurs when rats fluff out their fur in order to appear bigger, or occasionally to help retain heat. It is probably most commonly seen in sick rats, who puff up to try and appear larger and prevent themselves from becoming targets. With that being said some rats are just more high strung than others, and will puff up from any excitement, even when positive. You can also see this behavior in aggressive feeling rats, or hormonal rats, and so you will need to look at the other behaviors that the rat is exhibiting to determine why they are puffed up.
Fur puffing occurs when rats fluff out their fur in order to appear bigger, or occasionally to help retain heat. It is probably most commonly seen in sick rats, who puff up to try and appear larger and prevent themselves from becoming targets. With that being said some rats are just more high strung than others, and will puff up from any excitement, even when positive. You can also see this behavior in aggressive feeling rats, or hormonal rats, and so you will need to look at the other behaviors that the rat is exhibiting to determine why they are puffed up.
Huffing:
Huffing is when you hear the rat make a sort of "air puff" noise. This will often be accompanied by the rat rubbing themselves on things and scent marking furiously. Huffing is the sign of a very unhappy rat and is usually seen when the rat is feeling upset or aggressive - occasionally bonded cagemates will huff if they get into a big squabble, but you will more commonly see this during or before intros where the rat isn't a fan of the new rat being in their area. Huffing can also be seen in hormonal males and if your rat starts to huff suddenly at you its a good idea to get them vet checked to see what's going on.
Huffing is when you hear the rat make a sort of "air puff" noise. This will often be accompanied by the rat rubbing themselves on things and scent marking furiously. Huffing is the sign of a very unhappy rat and is usually seen when the rat is feeling upset or aggressive - occasionally bonded cagemates will huff if they get into a big squabble, but you will more commonly see this during or before intros where the rat isn't a fan of the new rat being in their area. Huffing can also be seen in hormonal males and if your rat starts to huff suddenly at you its a good idea to get them vet checked to see what's going on.
Body Vibrating:
Female rats will often vibrate their ears when in heat, however when a rat of either gender full vibrates their body it tends to indicate that they are unsure about how they feel. You'll often see this in new places where rats instinct to explore and their prey instinct to be cautious clash some.
Female rats will often vibrate their ears when in heat, however when a rat of either gender full vibrates their body it tends to indicate that they are unsure about how they feel. You'll often see this in new places where rats instinct to explore and their prey instinct to be cautious clash some.
Pink Ears:
Rats ears will become pinker not only when they are warm, but also when they are very content. So if you are petting your rat and notice their ears flushing that's a great sign!
Rats ears will become pinker not only when they are warm, but also when they are very content. So if you are petting your rat and notice their ears flushing that's a great sign!
Hormonal/Maternal Aggression:
If you have an intact male that is suddenly starting to mount your hand, bite you (or other rats), puffs up, scent marks by rubbing against things, and is acting unpredictable, and is between the age of 4-12 months, there's a good chance he's experiencing hormonal aggression. This sort of aggression is caused by an excess of testosterone, and as such the afflicted rat either needs to be chemically or physically neutered in order to return to normal behavior. Keep in mind that a hormonal male is not happy - he doesn't want to attack other rats or his humans, but raging hormones give him no choice. Hormone aggression has been shown to be genetic and as such by buying from an ethical breeder you can reduce your chance of experiencing this with male rats down to almost 0.Unfortunately pet store rats and feeder rats and other genetically unknown male rats are impossible to predict and if they do happen to experience hormonal aggression they will need to be neutered.
Females rats can also experience a form of hormonal aggression when they have a litter and this is known as maternal aggression. Females that exhibit maternal aggression can produce males with hormonal aggression and should not be bred. Once a female starts to exhibit maternal aggression its also possible that she will never fully recover - some females bounce back and once their babies are weaned go back to their normal selves, but others retain these aggressive behaviors even after their babies are gone.
If you have an intact male that is suddenly starting to mount your hand, bite you (or other rats), puffs up, scent marks by rubbing against things, and is acting unpredictable, and is between the age of 4-12 months, there's a good chance he's experiencing hormonal aggression. This sort of aggression is caused by an excess of testosterone, and as such the afflicted rat either needs to be chemically or physically neutered in order to return to normal behavior. Keep in mind that a hormonal male is not happy - he doesn't want to attack other rats or his humans, but raging hormones give him no choice. Hormone aggression has been shown to be genetic and as such by buying from an ethical breeder you can reduce your chance of experiencing this with male rats down to almost 0.Unfortunately pet store rats and feeder rats and other genetically unknown male rats are impossible to predict and if they do happen to experience hormonal aggression they will need to be neutered.
Females rats can also experience a form of hormonal aggression when they have a litter and this is known as maternal aggression. Females that exhibit maternal aggression can produce males with hormonal aggression and should not be bred. Once a female starts to exhibit maternal aggression its also possible that she will never fully recover - some females bounce back and once their babies are weaned go back to their normal selves, but others retain these aggressive behaviors even after their babies are gone.
Wrestling/Playing/Dominance Squabbles:
Rats are very physical creatures in how they communicate, and this means that play fighting and wrestling is very common. Unless one rat seems excessively scared or you see actual injuries its usually just normal play fighting and dominance squabbling and should be allowed to continue.
Rats are very physical creatures in how they communicate, and this means that play fighting and wrestling is very common. Unless one rat seems excessively scared or you see actual injuries its usually just normal play fighting and dominance squabbling and should be allowed to continue.
Side Sucking:
When a rat seems to be sucking in their sides that indicates that they are feeling abdominal pain or discomfort. Seeing side sucking alone isn't necessarily means to panic, as sometimes rats will eat too much or just get an upset stomach and need a few hours to return to normal. However if side sucking is combined with any other worrying signs then its a good idea to get the rats checked out by a vet, as it can indicate serious abdominal pain and further medical issues.
When a rat seems to be sucking in their sides that indicates that they are feeling abdominal pain or discomfort. Seeing side sucking alone isn't necessarily means to panic, as sometimes rats will eat too much or just get an upset stomach and need a few hours to return to normal. However if side sucking is combined with any other worrying signs then its a good idea to get the rats checked out by a vet, as it can indicate serious abdominal pain and further medical issues.
Hiccuping:
Hiccuping in rats is most commonly seen as a rhythmic body jerking that can last a minute or two. Its most commonly seen when the rat first wakes up or is falling asleep, and tend to come along with any changes in breathing pattern. Hiccuping can sometimes be accompanied by a soft squeak, and this itself isn't a cause for concern.
Hiccuping in rats is most commonly seen as a rhythmic body jerking that can last a minute or two. Its most commonly seen when the rat first wakes up or is falling asleep, and tend to come along with any changes in breathing pattern. Hiccuping can sometimes be accompanied by a soft squeak, and this itself isn't a cause for concern.
Grunting:
If your rat begins to make a noise similar to a pig grunt that is know as grunting. Grunting is always due to some sort of respiratory tract irritation and the resulting inflammation. Even if it only seems to occur when you take the rat out, keep in mind that grunting, like any respiratory issue, will be exacerbated when the rat gets excited and active because that is when they will require more oxygen and heighten their respiratory rate. Grunting can be caused due to simple allergies, and so with no other symptoms its okay to wait a few days to see if it goes away on its own. However if grunting persists over a week or is accompanied with any other worrying symptom you'll want to get a vet visit for your rat.
If your rat begins to make a noise similar to a pig grunt that is know as grunting. Grunting is always due to some sort of respiratory tract irritation and the resulting inflammation. Even if it only seems to occur when you take the rat out, keep in mind that grunting, like any respiratory issue, will be exacerbated when the rat gets excited and active because that is when they will require more oxygen and heighten their respiratory rate. Grunting can be caused due to simple allergies, and so with no other symptoms its okay to wait a few days to see if it goes away on its own. However if grunting persists over a week or is accompanied with any other worrying symptom you'll want to get a vet visit for your rat.
Sneezing:
Sneezing in rats can be seen as small sneezes ever so often, or full-blown sneezing fits. If your rat just sneezes occasionally, or if they have been with you for less than 2 weeks, then sneezing isn't a bad sign. However if your rat has been sneezing a lot and is no longer in that 2 week adjustment phase then its a good idea to get them a vet checkup as respiratory issues in rats can hit fast and hard and its not worth waiting around to see what other symptoms will develop.
Sneezing in rats can be seen as small sneezes ever so often, or full-blown sneezing fits. If your rat just sneezes occasionally, or if they have been with you for less than 2 weeks, then sneezing isn't a bad sign. However if your rat has been sneezing a lot and is no longer in that 2 week adjustment phase then its a good idea to get them a vet checkup as respiratory issues in rats can hit fast and hard and its not worth waiting around to see what other symptoms will develop.
Lifting One Paw:
If you see your rat freeze and lift one paw that is a sign that they are on alert. Depending on how the next few seconds go they might get scared and run off, or go back to their normal business. Regardless it is a very cute behavior and one that is very similar to dogs!
Lethargy:
Lethargy in rats is a very bad sign. If your rat is acting lethargic you need to get them vet help right away - rats as prey animals will try and prevent showing any signs of illness as much as possible, so if they no longer try to act normal then that's a huge sign that they need medical help sooner rather than later. (Keep in mind that some rats are more "lazy" than others, and as rats age its normal for them to slow down. Lethargy is really an acute sign, meaning it comes on suddenly instead of gradually.)
Lethargy in rats is a very bad sign. If your rat is acting lethargic you need to get them vet help right away - rats as prey animals will try and prevent showing any signs of illness as much as possible, so if they no longer try to act normal then that's a huge sign that they need medical help sooner rather than later. (Keep in mind that some rats are more "lazy" than others, and as rats age its normal for them to slow down. Lethargy is really an acute sign, meaning it comes on suddenly instead of gradually.)
Choking/Head Bobbing/"Gagging":
If you see your rat stretching their head out, then seeming to tuck it in a sort of dry heaving motion, then chances are they are choking. Luckily for rats this isn't usually a cause for concern, because the way their throat is designed makes it difficult for trapped food to actually block the airway. Instead its usually just a bit of an irritant and the rat will work it out themselves after a few minutes. During this time its not uncommon to see the rat drool, hang their head over items, head bob, and generally act lethargic. Once the item has passed, either by them finally swallowing it or by them passively regurgitating it (rats cannot vomit, however they can passively regurgitate), its not uncommon for the rat to want to rest for a bit before going back to normal. During this time its best to let them rest, offering some liquid food like yogurt to help reenergize them if the episode was on the longer side and otherwise letting them recover at their own pace.
Now generally with choking in rats you don't need to worry, but if it lasts more than a few hours, involves gasping, has the rat turning blue, or has stopped breathing entirely, then they will need additional help. For the most part its best to get vet help, however if your rat is no longer breathing you will have to take action yourself. Your best bet for dislodging the offending food is the "rat fling" - since rats are such small animals the best way to dislodge stuck items is by holding the tail base and abdomen firmly, then swinging the rat downwards (with their head facing the ground). Repeat a few times and check to see if they are breathing normally, and if not repeat again. Chances are you will never have to do this (I have only ever done it once over the past few years while caring for 25+ rats, and it was on an already ill rat that was weak due to illness causing the choking to begin with), but its a good technique to know just in case.
If you see your rat stretching their head out, then seeming to tuck it in a sort of dry heaving motion, then chances are they are choking. Luckily for rats this isn't usually a cause for concern, because the way their throat is designed makes it difficult for trapped food to actually block the airway. Instead its usually just a bit of an irritant and the rat will work it out themselves after a few minutes. During this time its not uncommon to see the rat drool, hang their head over items, head bob, and generally act lethargic. Once the item has passed, either by them finally swallowing it or by them passively regurgitating it (rats cannot vomit, however they can passively regurgitate), its not uncommon for the rat to want to rest for a bit before going back to normal. During this time its best to let them rest, offering some liquid food like yogurt to help reenergize them if the episode was on the longer side and otherwise letting them recover at their own pace.
Now generally with choking in rats you don't need to worry, but if it lasts more than a few hours, involves gasping, has the rat turning blue, or has stopped breathing entirely, then they will need additional help. For the most part its best to get vet help, however if your rat is no longer breathing you will have to take action yourself. Your best bet for dislodging the offending food is the "rat fling" - since rats are such small animals the best way to dislodge stuck items is by holding the tail base and abdomen firmly, then swinging the rat downwards (with their head facing the ground). Repeat a few times and check to see if they are breathing normally, and if not repeat again. Chances are you will never have to do this (I have only ever done it once over the past few years while caring for 25+ rats, and it was on an already ill rat that was weak due to illness causing the choking to begin with), but its a good technique to know just in case.
Open Mouth Breathing/Gasping:
Rats are obligate nose breathers which means that when at all possible they breath through their nose. This means that if you see them opening their mouth wide to breath this is a very bad sign. Occasionally you will see this with choking and in these cases it may resolve on its own, however it is much more commonly seen in advanced stages of respiratory distress and is a sign that you should get your rat to the vet right away. Even if the gasping seems to come on and then go away intermittently that doesn't mean your rat is fine - instead this often means they are in respiratory distress, however you only see the dramatic symptoms when the rat is active and breathing quicker, triggering the need for more oxygen and triggering the gasping. Gasping is one of those signs in rats that really should not be ignored and if you see it you really want to get to your vet asap.
Rats are obligate nose breathers which means that when at all possible they breath through their nose. This means that if you see them opening their mouth wide to breath this is a very bad sign. Occasionally you will see this with choking and in these cases it may resolve on its own, however it is much more commonly seen in advanced stages of respiratory distress and is a sign that you should get your rat to the vet right away. Even if the gasping seems to come on and then go away intermittently that doesn't mean your rat is fine - instead this often means they are in respiratory distress, however you only see the dramatic symptoms when the rat is active and breathing quicker, triggering the need for more oxygen and triggering the gasping. Gasping is one of those signs in rats that really should not be ignored and if you see it you really want to get to your vet asap.
Red Tears/Porphyrin:
Okay so this isn't really a behavior, but its important nonetheless. Porphyrin is a red mucous like substance secreted by every rat by a gland behind their eyes. This porphyrin drains out the eyes and nose daily, however many rats (in particular younger/healthier rats) will groom it off before you see it. Because of that it tends to shock a lot of new rat owners the first time they see porphyrin build up around a rats eyes, nose, or on their fur. Porphyrin itself is normal, and as rats age they tend to groom less and so you'll often see it more. With that being said sick rats also tend to produce more porphyrin and groom less which is why many people associate it with illness. Thankfully porphyrin itself isn't anything to worry about, and its only if you see it with other worrying symptoms that you should consider a vet checkup.
Okay so this isn't really a behavior, but its important nonetheless. Porphyrin is a red mucous like substance secreted by every rat by a gland behind their eyes. This porphyrin drains out the eyes and nose daily, however many rats (in particular younger/healthier rats) will groom it off before you see it. Because of that it tends to shock a lot of new rat owners the first time they see porphyrin build up around a rats eyes, nose, or on their fur. Porphyrin itself is normal, and as rats age they tend to groom less and so you'll often see it more. With that being said sick rats also tend to produce more porphyrin and groom less which is why many people associate it with illness. Thankfully porphyrin itself isn't anything to worry about, and its only if you see it with other worrying symptoms that you should consider a vet checkup.
Grooming:
Rats are very clean creatures, and will groom themselves many times a day. Grooming can also be a self-soothing behavior, seen in both happy rats, as well as stressed rats.
Rats are very clean creatures, and will groom themselves many times a day. Grooming can also be a self-soothing behavior, seen in both happy rats, as well as stressed rats.
Force Grooming:
Like the name implies force grooming is when a rat actively pins another rat and grooms them forcefully despite any protests from the other rat. Force grooming is part of normal dominance rituals and should not be disrupted. Its normal for a rat to squeak some during force grooming so don't be alarmed@
Like the name implies force grooming is when a rat actively pins another rat and grooms them forcefully despite any protests from the other rat. Force grooming is part of normal dominance rituals and should not be disrupted. Its normal for a rat to squeak some during force grooming so don't be alarmed@
Playing Dead/On Their Back:
If a rat leans backwards away from you or another rat they are going on the defensive. This can be due to something startling them, or because they are genuinely afraid. Generally if you see this sign amount two bonded rats its fine to let them be, but if you see it in rats you are trying to bond watch closely, and if a rat displays this defensive behavior towards you then you'll want to back off and slow down your interactions with them.
If a rat leans backwards away from you or another rat they are going on the defensive. This can be due to something startling them, or because they are genuinely afraid. Generally if you see this sign amount two bonded rats its fine to let them be, but if you see it in rats you are trying to bond watch closely, and if a rat displays this defensive behavior towards you then you'll want to back off and slow down your interactions with them.
Licking:
Rats will lick themselves, other cagemates, and their humans as a form of grooming. You can also get licked by rats if you smell like something yummy, or if your hands are salty or wet.
Rats will lick themselves, other cagemates, and their humans as a form of grooming. You can also get licked by rats if you smell like something yummy, or if your hands are salty or wet.
Rodentistry:
Rodentistry is when a rat tries to open your mouth to lick your teeth and saliva. Some people are comfortable with it, others less so, but the main reason behind it tends to stem from rats love of licking liquids. Rats love that our saliva tends to be food scented, and on top of that love that its liquid, and so if allowed many rats will lick inside your mouth if given a chance (and its up to you on whether to allow it or not - just be careful if you do allow it because they have some sharp claws and aren't always careful trying to claw open your mouth!)
Rodentistry is when a rat tries to open your mouth to lick your teeth and saliva. Some people are comfortable with it, others less so, but the main reason behind it tends to stem from rats love of licking liquids. Rats love that our saliva tends to be food scented, and on top of that love that its liquid, and so if allowed many rats will lick inside your mouth if given a chance (and its up to you on whether to allow it or not - just be careful if you do allow it because they have some sharp claws and aren't always careful trying to claw open your mouth!)
Hoarding/Stashing/Covering:
Rats are very much stashing animals and this means that just like squirrels they have an instinct to hoard and stash food. Not all domestic rats exhibit these traits, however many still do to some extent. This has nothing to do with them liking or not liking a certain food because as mentioned it is simply an instinctual behavior that the rat is expressing. The same goes for food or resource covering (where the rat places bedding or other items on top of their food or water bowl) - keep in mind that rats don't know that covering water will prevent them from drinking it or dirty it up, so when possible its best to stick to water bottles or a hooded cage bar mounted bird water bowl.
Rats are very much stashing animals and this means that just like squirrels they have an instinct to hoard and stash food. Not all domestic rats exhibit these traits, however many still do to some extent. This has nothing to do with them liking or not liking a certain food because as mentioned it is simply an instinctual behavior that the rat is expressing. The same goes for food or resource covering (where the rat places bedding or other items on top of their food or water bowl) - keep in mind that rats don't know that covering water will prevent them from drinking it or dirty it up, so when possible its best to stick to water bottles or a hooded cage bar mounted bird water bowl.
"Potato" Sleeping:
Rats are notorious for sleeping in funny positions, and one of the most common is the potato position. For this the rat will curl up and stick their head between their hind legs, curling into a small ball. This is a normal behavior for rats and is a good sign that they fell comfortable and content.
Rats are notorious for sleeping in funny positions, and one of the most common is the potato position. For this the rat will curl up and stick their head between their hind legs, curling into a small ball. This is a normal behavior for rats and is a good sign that they fell comfortable and content.
Digging:
Rats are natural burrowers, and as such are prone to instinctual digging behaviors. This means that if rats have bedding available, they will tend to dig and rearrange it from time to time. Similarly if they only have fleece available, they will still try to dig down because its just instinctual for them. I suggest that if you use fleece or a pelleted bedding like I do that you then provide a dig box full of a few inches or more of a lighter bedding that the rats can fulfill their digging instincts in (I use crinkled paper in my rats dig box).
Rats are natural burrowers, and as such are prone to instinctual digging behaviors. This means that if rats have bedding available, they will tend to dig and rearrange it from time to time. Similarly if they only have fleece available, they will still try to dig down because its just instinctual for them. I suggest that if you use fleece or a pelleted bedding like I do that you then provide a dig box full of a few inches or more of a lighter bedding that the rats can fulfill their digging instincts in (I use crinkled paper in my rats dig box).
Bar Chewing:
Rats can develop bar chewing habits for many reasons. One reason is boredom, or a cage that is simply too small. While the minimum for 2 rats is 4.5 cubic feet many rats need more space to really thrive, and if they don't have this space bad habits like bar or plastic chewing can result. Of course that doesn't mean all bar chewing is due to stress or boredom - sometimes rats just start it up, and its a very difficult behavior to stop once it gets into full swing. There are a few things you can do to discourage it - one, for example, is to add more enrichment to your cage in the form of interactive toys like foraging toys, wheels, and dig boxes. Another option might be to upgrade your cage, or even just to block the rats favorite chewing spot for a bit. Overall the biggest thing to avoid is accidentally encouraging it - avoid riling your rats up when you can't take them out, as they can take this excitement out by bar chewing. Similarly avoid taking out rats that are already bar chewing, instead choosing to making a noise or such to redirect their attention, then get them out when they have moved on a few minutes later. Other options are to try a spray such as bitter apple to try and prevent the rat from wanting to chew, but some rats like the tastes of these products so its a good idea to test them first before using them.
Rats can develop bar chewing habits for many reasons. One reason is boredom, or a cage that is simply too small. While the minimum for 2 rats is 4.5 cubic feet many rats need more space to really thrive, and if they don't have this space bad habits like bar or plastic chewing can result. Of course that doesn't mean all bar chewing is due to stress or boredom - sometimes rats just start it up, and its a very difficult behavior to stop once it gets into full swing. There are a few things you can do to discourage it - one, for example, is to add more enrichment to your cage in the form of interactive toys like foraging toys, wheels, and dig boxes. Another option might be to upgrade your cage, or even just to block the rats favorite chewing spot for a bit. Overall the biggest thing to avoid is accidentally encouraging it - avoid riling your rats up when you can't take them out, as they can take this excitement out by bar chewing. Similarly avoid taking out rats that are already bar chewing, instead choosing to making a noise or such to redirect their attention, then get them out when they have moved on a few minutes later. Other options are to try a spray such as bitter apple to try and prevent the rat from wanting to chew, but some rats like the tastes of these products so its a good idea to test them first before using them.
Over-grooming/Barbering:
Barbering is when a rat chews down their fur or another rats fur right to the skin. Barbering does not involve piercing the skin, however you will notice a seeming lack of fur and will be able to see the skin below. Barbering is caused by genetics, stress, or a combo of both, and while in some cases reducing any stressors and adding cage enrichment can stop the barbering behavior, in most cases once it starts it will continue even if the rat returns to being fully happy. This combined with the fact that barbering is often genetic means that its not a huge behavior to worry about if your rat is seemingly content otherwise. As long as they aren't' breaking the skin it won't affect their quality of life.
Barbering is when a rat chews down their fur or another rats fur right to the skin. Barbering does not involve piercing the skin, however you will notice a seeming lack of fur and will be able to see the skin below. Barbering is caused by genetics, stress, or a combo of both, and while in some cases reducing any stressors and adding cage enrichment can stop the barbering behavior, in most cases once it starts it will continue even if the rat returns to being fully happy. This combined with the fact that barbering is often genetic means that its not a huge behavior to worry about if your rat is seemingly content otherwise. As long as they aren't' breaking the skin it won't affect their quality of life.
Scabs:
If you see scabs popping up on your rats neck, back, belly, or ears, then its likely due to parasites. Its fairly common for only one rat in a group to be affected to the point of scratching themselves to scabs, however if one is infested then they all are. Keep in mind that rat fur mites are too small to see without a microscope, and so generally when you see scabs the first course of action should be to treat the entire group with kitten or cat revolution. If after a dose of two of revolution the scabs don't seem to disappear then it may also be a protein allergy - rats are fairly sensitive to protein, especially older male rats, and so if the scabs don't seem to be related to parasites your next step should be to remove all excess protein treats from their diet.
If you see scabs popping up on your rats neck, back, belly, or ears, then its likely due to parasites. Its fairly common for only one rat in a group to be affected to the point of scratching themselves to scabs, however if one is infested then they all are. Keep in mind that rat fur mites are too small to see without a microscope, and so generally when you see scabs the first course of action should be to treat the entire group with kitten or cat revolution. If after a dose of two of revolution the scabs don't seem to disappear then it may also be a protein allergy - rats are fairly sensitive to protein, especially older male rats, and so if the scabs don't seem to be related to parasites your next step should be to remove all excess protein treats from their diet.
Itching:
Itching in rats isn't always a bad sign, however if they seem to be itching excessively then its a good idea to treat everyone for parasites with revolution. As mentioned above in the scab area its not uncommon for only one rat in a group to show symptoms, but if one is infested, they all area. Like scabs the second most common cause for excess itching in rats is too much protein in their diet and so if parasite treatments don't work its a good idea to try removing any excess protein from their diet as a next step.
Itching in rats isn't always a bad sign, however if they seem to be itching excessively then its a good idea to treat everyone for parasites with revolution. As mentioned above in the scab area its not uncommon for only one rat in a group to show symptoms, but if one is infested, they all area. Like scabs the second most common cause for excess itching in rats is too much protein in their diet and so if parasite treatments don't work its a good idea to try removing any excess protein from their diet as a next step.
Nibbling/Nipping:
Rats are very physical animals and especially with baby rats or rats that aren't used to humans they will mainly explore with their mouths. This often takes the form of then nibbling or even nipping you - this behavior can scare some people, but its a completely normal phase for all baby rats and adults that haven't had much human contact. Nibbling and nipping won't progress to biting and as long as you "eep!" and wiggle your hand if they nip too hard they will quickly learn to be more gentle. Nibbling can even progress to grooming later on, so I tend to encourage it as long as the rats are being gentle.
Rats are very physical animals and especially with baby rats or rats that aren't used to humans they will mainly explore with their mouths. This often takes the form of then nibbling or even nipping you - this behavior can scare some people, but its a completely normal phase for all baby rats and adults that haven't had much human contact. Nibbling and nipping won't progress to biting and as long as you "eep!" and wiggle your hand if they nip too hard they will quickly learn to be more gentle. Nibbling can even progress to grooming later on, so I tend to encourage it as long as the rats are being gentle.
Head Swaying/"Scanning":
Head swaying is a common behavior seen in rats with pink or ruby eyes. It can also be seen occasionally in rats with black eyes, and manifests as a "scanning" behavior where the rat seems trance-like as they slowly sing their head back and forth. Thankfully this is nothing to worry about and is instead just the rat trying to focus better - since rats have such terrible eyesight one method they use to determine distance from close up things is this scanning movement, and all it means is that your rats doesn't have the best vision and is trying to compensate.
Head swaying is a common behavior seen in rats with pink or ruby eyes. It can also be seen occasionally in rats with black eyes, and manifests as a "scanning" behavior where the rat seems trance-like as they slowly sing their head back and forth. Thankfully this is nothing to worry about and is instead just the rat trying to focus better - since rats have such terrible eyesight one method they use to determine distance from close up things is this scanning movement, and all it means is that your rats doesn't have the best vision and is trying to compensate.
Head Tilt/Circling/Rolling:
A head tilt is when a rats head is seemingly tilted one way and they can't until it. Don't mistake this for scanning because its a very different behavior - while scanning is intentionally done by the rat to help their vision, a head tilt is completely involuntary and happens because the rats balance is off. Circling is the next step up from a head tilt, where the rat will walk in a circle due to their affected balance, and the final step is rolling where the rat is so off balance that they can't even stand. Rolling is a very bad sign and its essential to try and treat your rat before it gets to that stage. The most common cause for a head tilt and its derivatives is an inner ear infection - these will often show no sign other than a head tilt, but they are nasty and can permanently damage the rats balance if not treated soon enough and so its a good idea to get your rat to the vet for antibiotics and anti-inflammatory to give them the best chance of a full recovery. Occasionally a rat will recovery fully from an ear infection but still be left with a head tilt, and while this does affect their balance some they will learn to adapt to it and can live just as good a life as any other rat.
Head tilts and associated symptoms can also be caused by a brain or ear tumor, however these are more common in older rats (18+ months). Its common for a vet to first treat for inner ear infections, as the tumors that cause similar symptoms are not only much more rare, but actually have very similar treatments.
A head tilt is when a rats head is seemingly tilted one way and they can't until it. Don't mistake this for scanning because its a very different behavior - while scanning is intentionally done by the rat to help their vision, a head tilt is completely involuntary and happens because the rats balance is off. Circling is the next step up from a head tilt, where the rat will walk in a circle due to their affected balance, and the final step is rolling where the rat is so off balance that they can't even stand. Rolling is a very bad sign and its essential to try and treat your rat before it gets to that stage. The most common cause for a head tilt and its derivatives is an inner ear infection - these will often show no sign other than a head tilt, but they are nasty and can permanently damage the rats balance if not treated soon enough and so its a good idea to get your rat to the vet for antibiotics and anti-inflammatory to give them the best chance of a full recovery. Occasionally a rat will recovery fully from an ear infection but still be left with a head tilt, and while this does affect their balance some they will learn to adapt to it and can live just as good a life as any other rat.
Head tilts and associated symptoms can also be caused by a brain or ear tumor, however these are more common in older rats (18+ months). Its common for a vet to first treat for inner ear infections, as the tumors that cause similar symptoms are not only much more rare, but actually have very similar treatments.
Limping:
Rats can limp for a variety of reasons, but the most common is due to a sprained paw. Keep in mind that rats are masters of hiding pain and so its common for a rat with a sprained paw to allow you to touch and manipulate the injured area and even try to use it themselves without protest. Because of this persistence when a rat sprains their paw its a good idea to give them a day or few or mandatory cage rest (so no free-range for a few days to encourage them to rest and heal - sometimes a smaller one level cage is necessary, but I've yet to have to use one for a sprain alone), along with give them some infant Motrin to reduce swelling and pain. Its not uncommon for a rats foot to swell a fair bit when sprained and the swelling is what you really need to worry about, and as such its a good idea to keep some infant Motrin or Tylenol at home in order to reduce this swelling and pain ASAP. Another option is to go to your vet, and they will probably prescribe Metacam (a powerful anti-inflammatory that also gives great pain relief), however for a sprain the stress of a vet trip is rarely worth it and infant Motrin should do the job when it comes to reducing swelling and pain (you can click on my medicine charts page here to access a chart of how to dose rats with OTC medicines like infant Motrin).
Rats can limp for a variety of reasons, but the most common is due to a sprained paw. Keep in mind that rats are masters of hiding pain and so its common for a rat with a sprained paw to allow you to touch and manipulate the injured area and even try to use it themselves without protest. Because of this persistence when a rat sprains their paw its a good idea to give them a day or few or mandatory cage rest (so no free-range for a few days to encourage them to rest and heal - sometimes a smaller one level cage is necessary, but I've yet to have to use one for a sprain alone), along with give them some infant Motrin to reduce swelling and pain. Its not uncommon for a rats foot to swell a fair bit when sprained and the swelling is what you really need to worry about, and as such its a good idea to keep some infant Motrin or Tylenol at home in order to reduce this swelling and pain ASAP. Another option is to go to your vet, and they will probably prescribe Metacam (a powerful anti-inflammatory that also gives great pain relief), however for a sprain the stress of a vet trip is rarely worth it and infant Motrin should do the job when it comes to reducing swelling and pain (you can click on my medicine charts page here to access a chart of how to dose rats with OTC medicines like infant Motrin).
Hind Leg Dragging:
Rats can start dragging their hind legs for a few reasons. The most common is what is known as HLD (hind leg degeneration), which is most commonly seen in older male rats. HLD will progress from a clumsy walk to the rat barely being able to use their hind legs and eventually not being able to use them at all. It does not progress past the hind legs, and when it manifests in older females it often stops well before total loss of hind leg use. HLD does not affect quality of life much so long as the rat is being cared for (with males its especially important to check for penis plugs if they have HLD, as they might not be able to groom that area. It may also be necessary to give them sponge baths because their urine can scald their skin if not cleaned off by either their own grooming or human grooming), however it does require some modifications to their lifestyle. Often rats with severe HLD will need a cage with more length and very little height to avoid any falls. Rats with mild HLD can often still live in normal cages so long as lots of fall breakers are provided, but you will have to keep an eye on them. These rats may also need daily help with grooming and (if male) penis plugs. HLD almost always shows up symmetrically (so both legs will be affected).
The other main cause of loss of hind leg use is a stroke. These tend to cause a more acute hind leg loss, meaning it happens suddenly instead of over time. Like HLD the rat may require some modifications to their lifestyle, but they should otherwise do fine with it. Some rats may even regain hind leg use gradually if they loose it due to a stroke, which is exactly what happened to my rat Latte after a stroke wiped out about 90% of her hind leg use.
Rats can start dragging their hind legs for a few reasons. The most common is what is known as HLD (hind leg degeneration), which is most commonly seen in older male rats. HLD will progress from a clumsy walk to the rat barely being able to use their hind legs and eventually not being able to use them at all. It does not progress past the hind legs, and when it manifests in older females it often stops well before total loss of hind leg use. HLD does not affect quality of life much so long as the rat is being cared for (with males its especially important to check for penis plugs if they have HLD, as they might not be able to groom that area. It may also be necessary to give them sponge baths because their urine can scald their skin if not cleaned off by either their own grooming or human grooming), however it does require some modifications to their lifestyle. Often rats with severe HLD will need a cage with more length and very little height to avoid any falls. Rats with mild HLD can often still live in normal cages so long as lots of fall breakers are provided, but you will have to keep an eye on them. These rats may also need daily help with grooming and (if male) penis plugs. HLD almost always shows up symmetrically (so both legs will be affected).
The other main cause of loss of hind leg use is a stroke. These tend to cause a more acute hind leg loss, meaning it happens suddenly instead of over time. Like HLD the rat may require some modifications to their lifestyle, but they should otherwise do fine with it. Some rats may even regain hind leg use gradually if they loose it due to a stroke, which is exactly what happened to my rat Latte after a stroke wiped out about 90% of her hind leg use.
Watch the video below to some examples of weird but normal rat behavior!Watch the video below to see examples of happy rats! |
Watch the video below to more examples of weird but normal rat behavior!Watch this video to see examples of rats in heat! |
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